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Q: How can I get rid of cigarette beetles in a natural, safe way? I have many of them coming in through one window at the bottom, and no matter how I try to seal the window, they keep coming in. I mentioned two hangers because the art usually has a wire on the back that hangs most level on two hangers. For that useless hole, fill it with joint compound, smooth off, let dry and sand smooth. Then go left or right to locate another hanging spot. Incidentally, if you hit a vertical stud, you can nail on a picture hook. After you finish, and it succeeds, you can leave the tape in place because the picture will cover it. Here’s a trick to keep the plaster from disintegrating: Tape a piece of duct tape on the wall where you work. Drill a small hole through the wood lath and insert the anchor, or drive in a round-head screw.Įither will act as a hanger. Try again up an inch or so, to see if you hit a bit of wood lath. Horsehair plaster is usually on wood lath, narrow strips of wood applied horizontally on the studs, and when you put in the anchor, you hit an area between the lath. How can I minimize damage to plaster walls? Any special materials? - Aaron Weineth, Wakefield, Mass.Ī: You simply ran into a bit of bad luck. I pre-drilled a hole and as I was tamping in the anchor, the plaster fell apart around the anchor and then “poof” - the anchor disappeared into the wall, leaving me with a useless hole in the wall. Case in point: I thought I was doing the right thing by inserting wall anchors for my first hanging. This is my first experience with plaster walls, and I’m afraid they are going to crumble when I hang artwork, etc. Q: We recently purchased a 1926 colonial house with mostly horsehair plaster walls. We also use these to reinforce the corners sometimes and they can also be used with the zbar so that the corners are all reinforced and the zbar works with the reinforced corners.Digital Replica Edition Home Page Close Menu These are usually for very high end homes and the "Look" is everything. We have one design company that always seems to design mirrors with very thin frames so we use the strainers to carry the weight.
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What I often do is when I install the zbar on the frame, I put a screw at the end of the zbar on the vertical side of the frame, even if I have to drill the holes in the zbar, so that the sides are connected to the top so it's not just the top carrying the load.Īlso, sometimes the mirrors have strainers glued with mastic to them and the zbar is attached to the strainer so that the frame is just trim and is not carrying the load. It has never happened in 48 years, but there is a first time for everything.Ĭlick to expand.I have on a couple of rare occasions used a zbar on the bottom along with the top, but the problem can be, if it isn't positioned perfectly, is it hanging from the top or sitting on the bottom? The one thing that I sometimes worry about when hanging bathroom mirrors, and we do a lot of very large ones, is that someday I'm going to drill into the wall and water will come squirting out. I mark and then see if they're 16" on center or sometimes 24" on center. I have a stud finder and sometimes it works but I often find that using my knuckle and rapping on the wall to "hear" the studs can be even more accurate. When there are 2 of us hanging, we use a small shop vac and hold the nozzle underneath the drill to catch the dust while drilling.
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We used Zbar and drilled into the mortar between the tiles for the mollys.
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I have dealt with lath and plaster a couple of times in the past. Not on lath and plaster but on tiled walls. Just did 2 like that in two bathrooms in a house a couple of weeks ago. We have hung mirrors that are almost too heavy for two people to lift onto the Zbar. Some of these mirrors are 40+ inches by 100+ inches and are extremely heavy. We do lots of mirror framing and the installations.